Skip to content

add resources page, add octoprint links and cleanup #9

New issue

Have a question about this project? Sign up for a free GitHub account to open an issue and contact its maintainers and the community.

Sign up for GitHub

By clicking “Sign up for GitHub”, you agree to our terms of service and privacy statement. We’ll occasionally send you account related emails.

Already on GitHub? Sign in to your account

Open
zoe-marie wants to merge 7 commits into
base: main
Choose a base branch
from
Open

add resources page, add octoprint links and cleanup #9

Show file tree
Hide file tree
Changes from all commits
Commits
Show all changes
7 commits
Select commit Hold shift + click to select a range
39b5fab
update 3D printing workshop links
zoe-marie May 13, 2026
13563bb
📝 clean up links
zoe-marie May 13, 2026
94f0c13
add octoprint
zoe-marie May 13, 2026
ecba4d3
run Grammarly over document, fix minor mistakes
zoe-marie May 13, 2026
305d55f
add resources
zoe-marie May 13, 2026
621960c
Clean up Rachel De Barros YouTube description
zoe-marie May 13, 2026
b1676e7
move CODE logo to bottom
zoe-marie May 13, 2026
File filter

Filter by extension

Filter by extension
Conversations
Failed to load comments.
Loading
Jump to
Jump to file
Failed to load files.
Loading
Diff view
Diff view
86 changes: 46 additions & 40 deletions 3dprinter.md
View file
Open in desktop
Original file line number Diff line number Diff line change
Expand Up @@ -9,62 +9,61 @@

The MakerSpace currently has a Prusa MK4S and a Prusa CORE One Printer.

These are fast, modern high quality, reliable machinesthat deliver great performance but are also easy to use and set up for beginners with a wealth of support and advice available.
These are fast, modern, high-quality, reliable machines that deliver great performance but are also easy to use and set up for beginners, with a wealth of support and advice available.

Join one of our Introduction to 3D printing workshops to get started if 3D printing is new for you. You can find these listed in the Learning Platform Events [https://app.code.berlin/events/eventSeries?](https://app.code.berlin/events/eventSeries?)
Join one of our Introduction to 3D printing workshops to get started if 3D printing is new for you. You can find these listed in the [Introduction sessions in MakerSpace Google Docs](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1lh0h8UYRIE3m7rFRqsqK_cCP7AEWUTUCyHSbxTzRfB4/edit?gid=0#gid=0)

You can find material on the Prusa Website about the MK4 and the Core One [https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk4](https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk4)
[https://help.prusa3d.com/product/core-one](https://help.prusa3d.com/product/core-one)
You can find material on the Prusa Website about the MK4 and the Core One [Prusa MK4](https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mk4)
[Prusa Core One](https://help.prusa3d.com/product/core-one)

Please download and read the Prusa introduction manual for safe and reliable printer operation
[https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads/mk3/handbook](https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads/mk4/handbook)
[Prusa MK4 Handbook](https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads/mk4/handbook)

The MK4 and Core One printers are very similar sharing the same electronics, motors and printhead. Their speed and quality is comparable though the CORE One has a tempearature controlled printing chamber that allows heat control when printing more complex engineering filemanets such as ABS and Nylon.
The MK4 and Core One printers are very similar, sharing the same electronics, motors and printhead. Their speed and quality are comparable, though the CORE One has a temperature-controlled printing chamber that allows heat control when printing more complex engineering filemanets such as ABS and Nylon.

*adapted from Prusa forum induction*

The PRUSA MK4S and Core one are very nice machines, and you will find that it is a reliable machine with great print quality. There are thousands of users who use this machine as a workhorse, and you can too.
The PRUSA MK4S and Core one are very nice printers, and you will find that they are reliable machines with great print quality. There are thousands of users who use this machine as a workhorse, and you can too.

That said, there is a learning curve and people make mistakes. If you are expecting this to be as easy as an inkjet or laser printer, it is not, but it can become that routine once you get over the learning curve.

This is a collection things most discussed on this forum as a reference for someone having problems starting (initial section) or trouble shooting (second section). None of this is “mine” but rather a collection of the advice, solutions and problems that are frequently discussed on this forum. This should be a good place to start looking for your answers. I am in no way affiliated with PRUSA, just a user who climbed this learning curve with the help of many wonderful forum members.
This is a collection of things most discussed on this forum as a reference for someone having problems starting (initial section) or troubleshooting (second section). None of this is “mine” but rather a collection of the advice, solutions and problems that are frequently discussed on this forum. This should be a good place to start looking for your answers. I am in no way affiliated with PRUSA, just a user who climbed this learning curve with the help of many wonderful forum members.

These hints/step are not to be used instead of thinking. Think about the problem/steps and make sure they make sense to you. This collection is provided in good faith, but you are responsible for your machine. Electricity and heat can hurt you or the machine. Make sure you are comfortable with the steps and your knowledge before jumping in.
These hints/steps are not to be used instead of thinking. Think about the problem/steps and make sure they make sense to you. This collection is provided in good faith, but you are responsible for your machine. Electricity and heat can hurt you or the machine. Make sure you are comfortable with the steps and your knowledge before jumping in.

Please watch the introduction video here
[https://youtu.be/JqH41K2vq0g?feature=shared](https://youtu.be/JqH41K2vq0g?feature=shared)
Please watch the introduction video here
[https://youtu.be/JqH41K2vq0g?feature=shared](https://youtu.be/JqH41K2vq0g?feature=shared)

![overview of Prusa 3d Printer](prusa3dprinter.png)

![overview of Prusa 3d Printer](prusa3dprinter.png
)
## Trouble Shooting
## Troubleshooting

### General advice.
1. The first layer is ALL important. Get it right first. See steps listed above. This will prevent a lot of frustration.
2. Print something from the SD card that came with the printer. If it prints fine, and things you slice don’t then you have a slicer issue. If they don’t you have a hardware issue.
3. Determine if the issue is persistent or intermittent. Try to localize the conditions that cause it. This is the fastest way to get to an answer.
4. Start simple before getting advanced. This is true for material choice, model choice, adding the MMU upgrade.
2. Print something from the SD card that came with the printer. If it prints fine, and things you slice don’t, then you have a slicer issue. If they don’t, you have a hardware issue.
3. Determine if the issue is persistent or intermittent. Try to localise the conditions that cause it. This is the fastest way to get to an answer.
4. Start simple before getting advanced. This is true for material choice, model choice, and adding the MMU upgrade.

Print comes loose from the bed during print, causing either spaghetti or a plastic tumor to grow on your extruder.
Print comes loose from the bed during printing, causing either spaghetti or a plastic tumour to grow on your extruder.
**Common causes:**
1. Poor Z Height setting (see above).
2. Print bed is not clean (see above).
3. Extruder cable knocked the print off the bed (see above).
4. Model has small footprint on the bed. Add BRIM in your slicer if the model has a flat bottom, and/or a RAFT if it has a curved bottom.
2. The print bed is not clean (see above).
3. The extruder cable knocked the print off the bed (see above).
4. The model has a small footprint on the bed. Add BRIM in your slicer if the model has a flat bottom, and/or a RAFT if it has a curved bottom.
5. A part of the print has “curled” up and caught on the nozzle or PINDA sensor. Look at supports in the slicer, increase bed temperature, use an enclosure to keep the part warmer and reduce drafts.

Extruder stops extruding filament. (Works for a while then stops)
**Common causes:**
1. Tension on the extruder springs is set wrong (see above).
2. Filament spool is not free to turn creating intermittent friction or binding. (Or filament is not wound well on the roll). Fix filament holder. Consider alternate designs on Thingiverse.
3. The extruder “Hobb-Goblin” pulley is dirty and debris is following the filament into the extruder.
4. The extruder “Hobb-Goblin” pulley is warn and is no longer grabbing the filament.
5. The extruder cooling fan (that cools the heat-break) is not keeping the heat-break below the filament melting temperature so it is melting and causing a clog. If in an enclosure, open the door. Verify the fan is running.
2. The filament spool is not free to turn, creating intermittent friction or binding. (Or the filament is not wound well on the roll). Fix the filament holder. Consider alternate designs on Thingiverse.
3. The extruder “Hobb-Goblin” pulley is dirty, and debris is following the filament into the extruder.
4. The extruder “Hobb-Goblin” pulley is worn and is no longer grabbing the filament.
5. The extruder cooling fan (that cools the heat-break) is not keeping the heat-break below the filament melting temperature, so it is melting and causing a clog. If in an enclosure, open the door. Verify the fan is running.
6. Intermittent (or broken) connection in the cable bundle for the extruder stepper (not stepping), cooling fan (not cool enough) or thermistor (causing the printer to think the temperature is cooler than it is, causing it to increase temperature beyond the range of the filament). Intermittent comes and goes as the cable flexes at different Z values.
7. Bad temperature for the filament.
8. Set screw on the extruder “Hobb-Goblin” pulley has come loose allowing the pulley to spin independently of the extruder stepper motor.
9. Set screw on the extruder thermistor is loose, creating a poor temperature reading of the heat block (see 6).
10. Poor quality on the filament diameter. Measure it with a caliper over a short span. Try a different spool.
8. The set screw on the extruder “Hobb-Goblin” pulley has come loose, allowing the pulley to spin independently of the extruder stepper motor.
9. The set screw on the extruder thermistor is loose, creating a poor temperature reading of the heat block (see 6).
10. Poor quality of the filament diameter. Measure it with a calliper over a short span. Try a different spool.

Bad surface quality on the final prints.
**Common causes:**
Expand All @@ -74,34 +73,41 @@ Bad surface quality on the final prints.
4. Wobbly Z axis or wobbly extruder casing.
5. Belts are rubbing on the pulley. This creates a periodic “bump” that takes the shape of vertical lines on the print.
6. Slicer settings. (A topic unto itself). Try different temperatures, retraction, cooling fan, etc.
7. Poor quality on the filament diameter. Measure it with a caliper over a short span. Try a different spool.
7. Poor quality of the filament diameter. Measure it with a calliper over a short span. Try a different spool.

Print suddenly shifts in X or Y and keeps printing.
**Common causes:**
1. Loose belts. (see above).
2. Extruder cable hit the print. (see above).
2. The extruder cable hit the print. (see above).
3. Stepper motor not secured properly.
4. Curled print hits the nozzle or PINDA sensor.
5. Bad wiring to steppers, or steppers overheating (rare), or power issues (use an UPS).
6. Binding on the axis - bearings non clean/parallel, failing or not secured properly (zip tie) to the carriage.
7. Cat, kid, or ghost bumped the extruder while printing. Punish offending party.
5. Bad wiring to steppers, or steppers overheating (rare), or power issues (use a UPS).
6. Binding on the axis - bearings not clean/parallel, failing or not secured properly (zip tie) to the carriage.
7. Cat, kid, or ghost bumped the extruder while printing. Punish the offending party.

Heated bed struggles to keep up with hotter bed temperatures.
1. There is a potentiometer on the power supply. It comes set around 11.5V. People have reported success with increasing that to 12V to 12.5V. There is some controversy to this, read the forum for details.
The heated bed struggles to keep up with hotter bed temperatures.
1. There is a potentiometer on the power supply. It comes set around 11.5V. People have reported success with increasing it to 12V to 12.5V. There is some controversy to this; read the forum for details.

## Software

There are 1000’s of free and pay tools out there for creating your models, slicing them, and so forth. This is really not the forum for that detailed a discussion, but here are some common ones so you can research them yourself.
There are 1000’s of free and paid tools out there for creating your models, slicing them, and so forth. This is really not the forum for that detailed a discussion, but here are some common ones so you can research them yourself. Prusa

### OctoPrint
If you are on campus, you can print and monitor your print via OctoPrint.

[Octoprint Prusa MK4S](http://192.168.15.105)
[Octoprint Prusa Core One](http://192.168.10.156)

### Slicers
* Convert .stl files (models) into .gcode commands for your printer. These can make a HUGE difference in your print quality. Most have 100s of settings and thus a learning curve, but the knowledge of the control is worth it.
* Common ones are: [Slic3r (use Prusa one)](https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/), KISS, Cura, Simplify3D (S3D) [Guide to slic3r]( http://www.instructables.com/id/Guide-to-Slic3r/)
* There are many Prusa Slicer introduction videos - here is a reasonable one [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kIqMPNQNSw](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kIqMPNQNSw)
* There are many Prusa Slicer introduction videos - here is a reasonable one [YouTube:
PrusaSlicer Beginner Tutorial: Learn the basics](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kIqMPNQNSw)

### CAD
* [OpenSCAD](https://openscad.org/) is opensource, powerful but complex - good if you have a programming background (even just a bit). [TinkerCAD](https://www.tinkercad.com/) is a super easy introduction to making 3d Models for printing. There is also software such as [SolidWorks](https://www.solidworks.com/) and also [SketchUp](https://www.sketchup.com/en)
* Autodesk Fusion360. Industrial level 3D modelling tool with free ascess for educational use [Fusion360 download](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/choose-usage)
* this intro to Fusion360 from formlabs is a good quick overview [https://formlabs.com/eu/blog/fusion-360-tutorial-basics-and-tips-for-3d-printing/](https://formlabs.com/eu/blog/fusion-360-tutorial-basics-and-tips-for-3d-printing/)
* [OpenSCAD](https://openscad.org/) is open source, powerful, but complex - good if you have a programming background (even just a bit). [TinkerCAD](https://www.tinkercad.com/) is a super easy introduction to making 3d Models for printing. There is also software such as [SolidWorks](https://www.solidworks.com/) and also [SketchUp](https://www.sketchup.com/en)
* Autodesk Fusion360. Industrial level 3D modelling tool with free access for educational use [Fusion360 download](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/choose-usage)
* This intro to Fusion360 from formlabs is a good quick overview [formlabs: Fusion 360 Tutorial: Basics and Tips for 3D Printing](https://formlabs.com/eu/blog/fusion-360-tutorial-basics-and-tips-for-3d-printing/)

### Sculpting type modeling
* [Blender](https://www.blender.org/) and similar.
Expand Down
Loading